Makita Drill Drivers
Makita 6319DWDE3 12v |
Makita DA312DWDE3 12v |
Makita 6280DWPE3 14.4v |
Makita 6280DZ 14.4v |
Makita 6337DWDE3 14.4v |
Makita 6339DWDE3 14.4v |
Makita BDF441RFE 14.4v |
Makita BDF442RFE 14.4v |
Makita BHP441RFE 14.4v |
Makita BHP442RFE14.4v |
Makita BHP442z 14.4v |
Makita 6390DWPE3 18v |
Makita 6390DZ 18v |
Makita BDF451RFE 18v |
Makita BDF452RFE 18v |
Makita BDF452z 18v |
Makita 6349DWDE3 18v
Makita BHP442z 14.4v Drill Driver
Makita have hit the right notes with yet another great product: this time its the Makita BHP442Z 14.4v Cordless Drill Driver - a compact and sturdy drill capable of offering everything the budding DIY enthusiast or serious DIY professional could ask for.
Features:
- Two mechanical gears
- Forward / Reverse rotation
- Variable speed trigger
- Electronic brake
- Job light
Specifications:
Max. in steel - 13mm
Max. in wood - 32mm
Max. in masonry - 13mm
Torque settings - 16
Max torque S /H - 30 /44Nm
Blows per minute - Hi: 0 to 21000bpm, Lo: 0 to 6000bpm
No load speed - Hi: 1400rpm, Lo: 0 to 400rpm
Net weight - 1.7kg
Great examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CD12CA 12v Drill Driver, Bosch PSR 12v Drill Driver, DeWalt DC740KA 12v Drill Driver, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v Drill Driver, Makita 312DWDE3 12v Drill Driver, as well the Ryobi CHD1201 12v Drill Driver
In the event that 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more ideal, then make sure to take a peek at the Black & Decker CD14CA 14.4v, Bosch GSR Tough 14.4v, DeWalt DC728KA 14.4v[/LINK], the Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v,Makita BDF442RFE 14.4v, and the Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v
For coverage of your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers requirements, why not view Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch GSR 18v Drill Driver, DeWalt 920KB 18v Drill Driver, Hitachi DS18DFL 18v Drill Driver, the Makita BDF452RFE 18v Drill Driver or the Ryobi CHP-1802 18v Drill Driver
Another important thing to think about is the amount of voltage a cordless drill driver has as the higher the voltage the more speed and torque the drill will have. The speed and torque of a cordless drill driver will help to determine how easy and fast the drill is to use. Over the years the amount of voltage that these power appliances have has increased and manufacturers such as Bosch and Hitachi now produce a range of cordless drill drivers including 12v, 14.4v and 18v. What needs to be considered here is that the more voltage the drill has the larger the battery will be thus affecting how heavy the drill will be.
An Special Direct System drill uses a unique type of chuck that does not require any tightening. The special SDS drill bits simply slot into place and are held until released. Hammer action is available on SDS type drills, however it is achieved using a slightly different method over the more traditional Hammer Drill. The SDS drill bit moves within the chuck itself rather than the more conventional method of having the whole chuck move. This is due to the way the SDS drill bit is held within the chuck. The SDS drill bit has short grooves running along the length of its body that the chuck clips into. These grooves allow the bit to move in and out and when pressure is applied to the end of the bit within the chuck the bit is forced out slightly creating the hammer action. Some SDS Drills have rotary stop which is able to switch off the rotary action and leave just hammer action allowing the drill to be used as a breaker or demolition hammer with a suitable chisel bit. Drills come in two standard sizes and they are SDS Plus (10mm) and SDS-Max (18mm). These sizes relate the size of the shank. SDS Plus is the most common and can withstand a hammer of up to 4Kg, and SDS Max for hammers over 5Kg. SDS Plus grips the drill bit in two places whereas SDS Max grip in three places. With the SDS drill you can use a chuck adaptor that when used enables the use of standard drill bits for rotary drilling. It is wise to avoid SDS Drills that do not have a safety clutch. If the drill bit jams and is unable to turn a safety clutch will prevent the drill body from spinning. This spinning may cause severe damage to the wrist and arm with the possibility of the drill being yanked from your hand, jumping out of the hole and coming into contact with a part of the body. A safety clutch should be high on your list of required features.
The least expensive drill drivers run at a single speed, but most have two fixed speeds: 300 rpm and 800 rpm. A slide switch or trigger lets you select high or low speed. These drill drivers are ideal for most light-duty operations. The low speed is for driving screws, the high speed for drilling holes. For more refined carpentry and repair tasks, select a drill that has the same two-speed switch and a trigger with variable speed control that lets you vary the speed from 0 rpm to the top of each range. And if you do more hole drilling than screwdriving, look for more speed, 1000 rpm or higher at the top end.
The chuck is the attachment where the bit is inserted, having jaws that grip the bit. Drills come in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes. This measurement is the chuck size and indicates the shaft diameter of the bits and accessories that will fit the drill. Chucks can be keyed (the jaws are tightened or loosened with a key) or keyless (the chuck may be tightened or loosened by hand). Keyless chucks offer two major benefits. If you have ever misplaced or lost a chuck key, you already know one of them. A keyless chuck will also allow bits to be changed more quickly. A real plus when you need to change from a drill bit to a screwdriver bit repeatedly or if you happen to be wearing gloves on the job. You can change the chuck in some keyless models with only one hand because the shaft locks when the trigger is off. In most models, however, you have to use both hands to turn the chuck in opposite directions. While you're in the shop change the bit on different drill drivers to see what style of keyless chuck you prefer.
All cordless drill drivers come with a battery charger, with recharge times ranging from 15 minutes to three hours. But faster isn't necessarily better. A contractor might depend on fast recharges, but slower recharging isn't usually a concern at home, especially if you have two batteries. What's more, there are drawbacks to fast charging. A fast recharge may damage a battery by generating excessive heat, unless it's a specially designed unit. If you want a speedy recharge, go with a tool from Makita, Hitachi or Panasonic, whose "smart" chargers are equipped with temperature sensors and feedback circuitry that protect batteries. These units provide a charge in as little as nine minutes without battery damage.
Check out drill drivers in DIY centres noting their weight and balance. Try out vertical and horizontal drilling positions to see how comfortable you feel. Contoured grips and rubber cushioning on some models make them very comfortable, even when you're applying direct palm pressure. While you're at it, see how easy it is to change clutch settings and operate the keyless chuck.
For most applications around the house a small set of common twist bits will normally serve your needs. You'll also need a drill to turn the bits and some tools to measure and mark where you want the hole. This includes a ruler or tape measure, a pencil or scribe and if working with metal, a centre punch and a hammer. The first and most important step is marking where you want the hole. You may also use a scribe on wood or plastic. Sometimes even a pencil will work well. As long as you may see your marks and they don't rub off when working your material it doesn't normally matter. Without a punch mark, the bit would drift around. If it did eventually catch, it would quite likely be in the incorrect location.
There will be occasions when you have to drill a hole at an angle. In these cases drill carefully. You may draw a pencil line on the material noting the angle and then try to follow that pencil guide as you drill. There are also angle guides you may use. Place these over the spot you want drilled with the guide calibrated at the correct angle. Insert the drill bit into the guide and drill away. If you are drilling completely through the material when the drill bit begins to exit out the other side of the material be careful, especially with wood. The drill bit exiting the wood may splinter the wood around the exit point. If it will show, you might want to sand it smooth. Better yet prevent the splintering by covering the exit point with masking or duct tape. The tape will decrease if not prevent the splintering.
Twist bits are available coated with Titanium nitride (TiN). These are easily identified by the gold like colour. This coating increases the hardness of the bit and adds a self-lubricating property. The coating is only really effective when metal is being drilled, it has little effect when working with other materials. Twist bits are usually available in sizes 0.8-12 mm plus. They are designed for drilling relatively small holes and they sometimes tend to clog quickly especially when the wood is 'green'. When drilling deep holes (especially in hardwood) the bits should be withdrawn regularly to remove the waste. Special care is required when using the smallest sizes since these bits are thin and brittle. Always hold the drill square to the work and apply only light pressure when drilling. To sharpen use a drill sharpener, a grindstone jig or an oilstone. Titanium nitride bits cannot be sharpened without destroying the coating (although if the drill needs sharpening, the coating will probably have already been destroyed). Forming the correct angle at the tip is important for efficient cutting.
DIY Safety tips:
If you need to change a mains fuse, check the correct rating for that circuit - the blown fuse might have been incorrect in the first place. Using a thicker fuse wire than the correct rating is hazardous. Switch off the power and remove the fuse for the relevant circuit before carrying out any work, or inspecting, either it, or the appliances connected to it. Never inspect, or carry out work on, any part of the system with the power on. Make sure that power cannot be inadvertently restored by someone else.
Always use the correct tools for the job. It is worth investing in high quality equipment as this will be safer and will probably do the job quicker.
Take extra care when removing artex or textured paint from walls as these materials may contain asbestos. Safety precautions must be followed when handling and disposing of asbestos. Contact your local environmental health department for advice.
Take extra care with old paint. Some old paint could give off harmful dust and pose a poisoning hazard if ingested by small children. You must not burn off old paint or rub it down with dry sandpaper or a power sander; you should clean up properly, using a high efficiency industrial vacuum cleaner with heavy duty filters. Have a basic First Aid kit accessible.
Be sure to double check the safety and condition of any working platform. Make sure that it may not move or give way. Never use ladders on top of working platforms.
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