Makita Drill Drivers
Makita 6319DWDE3 12v |
Makita DA312DWDE3 12v |
Makita 6280DWPE3 14.4v |
Makita 6280DZ 14.4v |
Makita 6337DWDE3 14.4v |
Makita 6339DWDE3 14.4v |
Makita BDF441RFE 14.4v |
Makita BDF442RFE 14.4v |
Makita BHP441RFE 14.4v |
Makita BHP442RFE14.4v |
Makita BHP442z 14.4v |
Makita 6390DWPE3 18v |
Makita 6390DZ 18v |
Makita BDF451RFE 18v |
Makita BDF452RFE 18v |
Makita BDF452z 18v |
Makita 6349DWDE3 18v
Makita BDF441RFE 14.4v Drill Driver
Makita Bdf441Rfe 14.4v Cordless Drill Driver
Features:
- Three mechanical gears
- Forward / Reverse Rotation
- Variable speed trigger
- Electronic Brake
- Job Light
Specifications:
Max. in steel - 13m
Max. in wood - 50mm
Torque settings - 16
Max torque S /H - 32 /70Nm
No load speed - 3: 0 to 1700rpm, 2: 0 to 600rpm, 1: 0 to 300rpm
Net weight- 2.0kg
Battery - 14.4v 3.0Ah Li-ion
Charging time Approx – 22min
Makita is known to always consider the research behind the positive features of a good quality tool; they know it has to be light (so it's not too hard to lift!), it has to be reliable (so the tool will always finish the job no matter how difficult or hard it is) and it has to be safe, which is the primary aspect of a tool we always think of first.
Fortunately all these features are part of technology of the Lithium-Ion battery. The facts are self-evident: this battery has a 40% weight saving compared to Ni-Cad or Ni-Mh batteries, it has up to 280% more lifetime working power than Ni-Cad batteries and this battery is also environmentally safe.
The technology behind this advance in battery technology is based on the scientific methods of High Energy. High Energy is based on storing energy to use at timed intervals; the negative electrode uses new nano-particles to prevent organic liquid electrolytes from reducing during battery recharging. The nano-particles quickly absorb and store a vast mount of Lithium-Ions without causing any deterioration in the in the electrode.
These batteries have very long life cycles; they also have no memory effect unlike Ni-Cad and Ni-MH, which means there is no need to discharge the battery before recharging it.
Superb examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CP12KB 12v Drill Driver, Bosch PSB12VE-2 12v Drill Driver, DeWalt DW965K 12v Drill Driver, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v Drill Driver, Makita 6270DWPE3 12v Drill Driver, as well the Ryobi CHD1201 12v Drill Driver
If 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more suitable, then be sure to look at the Black & Decker CP142KB 14.4v Drill Driver, Bosch PSR 14.4v Drill Driver, DeWalt DC731KA 14.4v Drill Driver, the Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v Drill Driver,Makita BDF441RFE 14.4v Drill Driver, and the Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v Drill Driver
To cover your your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers requirements, go take a look at the Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR 18v, DeWalt DC729KA 18v, Hitachi DS18DL 18v, the Makita 6390DZ 18v or the Ryobi CHD-1801M One+ 18v
Cordless drill drivers are significantly safer than corded or electric power tools as there is no lead for you to trip or fall over. Cordless power tools are much more accessible than corded tools as they allow you go anywhere and work in places that would ordinarily be inaccessible due to there being no power plug. Cordless drill drivers are becoming increasingly small and compact in design and are extremely easy to move around and transport. However, the size and weight of a cordless drill driver may vary depending on the battery type. Technological developments have allowed power tool manufacturers to produce cordless drill drivers that have the same voltage and power capacity as electric corded drill drivers.
Special Direct System Drills come in two standard sizes and they are SDS Plus (10mm) and SDS-Max (18mm). These sizes relate the size of the shank. SDS Plus is the most common and can withstand a hammer of up to 4Kg, and SDS Max for hammers over 5Kg. SDS Plus grips the drill bit in two places whereas SDS Max grip in three places. With the SDS drill you can use a chuck adaptor that when used enables the use of standard drill bits for rotary drilling. It is wise to avoid SDS Drills that do not have a safety clutch. If the drill bit jams and is unable to turn a safety clutch may prevent the drill body from spinning. This spinning may cause severe damage to the wrist and arm with the possibility of the drill being yanked from your hand, jumping out of the hole and coming into contact with a part of the body. A safety clutch could be high on your list of required features.
Before cordless drill drivers arrived, most drills had pistol grips, where the handle is behind the motor like the handle of a gun. But most of today's cordless models are equipped with a T-handle: The handle base flares to prevent hand slippage and accommodate a battery. Because the battery is centered under the weight and bulk of the motor, a T-handle provides better overall balance, particularly in heavier drills. Also, T-handle drills may often get into tighter spaces because your hand is out of the way in the centre of the drill. But for heavy-duty drilling and driving large screws, a pistol grip does let you apply pressure higher up — almost directly behind the bit — allowing you to put more pressure on the work.
Cordless drill drivers are measured in volts. Drills are available in everything from around 2 volts (for a cordless screwdriver) to the newest 24-volt tools. Higher voltage means heavier weight so consider buying a tool that may meet 80-90% of your needs. Twelve to 14.4 volt models are the most popular, and they may usually meet most homeowner's work needs. Corded drills are measured in amps. Generally, a higher amperage motor means more power.
All cordless drill drivers come with a battery charger, with recharge times ranging from 15 minutes to three hours. But faster isn't necessarily better. A contractor might depend on fast recharges, but slower recharging isn't usually a concern at home, especially should you have two batteries. What's more, there are drawbacks to fast charging. A quick recharge may damage a battery by generating excessive heat, unless it's a specially manufactured unit. If you want a speedy recharge, go with a tool from Makita, Hitachi or Panasonic, whose "smart" chargers are equipped with temperature sensors and feedback circuitry that protect batteries. These units provide a charge in as little as nine minutes without battery damage.
Lithium-ion batteries may rupture, ignite, or explode when exposed to high temperature environments, for example in an area that is prone to prolonged direct sunlight. Short-circuiting a Li-ion battery may cause it to ignite or explode, and as such, any attempt to open or modify a Li-ion battery's casing or circuitry is dangerous. Li-ion batteries contain safety appliances that protect the cells inside from abuse, and, should damaged, may cause the battery to ignite or explode.
When drilling deep or large holes, it is best to drill a small pilot hole first. This is very helpful when drilling deep holes because it's sometimes easier to keep the hole straight with a smaller bit. A larger bit may then normally follow the pilot hole. When drilling larger holes, especially in metal, the pilot hole opens an area in the metal to accommodate the tip of the larger bit so the cutting surfaces may more easily reach the uncut metal. Once you've drilled your hole, you'll probably find a burr on the back surface of your material. This may be removed by lightly drilling the back side of the hole with a larger bit. If the material is thin, such as sheet metal, instead of a burr you may find the material is actually distorted leaving a ragged hole. This be prevented by sandwiching the material between two pieces of wood before you drill the hole. As with all tools, exercise caution, wear safety equipment and learn to use the tools properly.
A drill without a drill bit is useless. A drill bit is the piece at the end of the drill that does the actual drilling. Drill bits come in a wide variety of sizes (diameter) and length. First you have to insert the bit into the drill. The end of the drill’s barrel has an opening. Insert the dull end of the drill bit into this hole. Now you have to tighten the drill bit into this hole so the bit is secure and does not come free. This is accomplished in one of two ways. The most traditional way is to use a chuck key. The chuck key is a small piece of petal shaped in a right angle. One piece of the key fits into the tightening collar around the bit. There is a hole there for that purpose. Then you simply turn the key clockwise tightening the collar over the bit. Turn it clockwise to tighten. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the collar and free the bit. When you do this make certain the drill is unplugged from its power source. This is a safety precaution. The second way does not include a chuck key. Instead there are usually two tightening collars. The bit is inserted in the outer most collar. Grasp this collar with one hand holding it steady. With a small bit of power provided by squeezing the trigger the loose collar spins freely and tightens the bit into the collar. If you want to tighten the bit the collar must spin clockwise. If you want to loosen the bit the collar must turn counter-clockwise. The direction of the collar’s spin is determined by moving a switch on the drill usually located near the trigger. Now your drill is ready to go. You now have the correct bit size and it is securely settled into the drill. You are ready to drill. First make certain the bit is the suitable material for the material you are drilling. Select a bit manufactured for metal should you are drilling through metal and select a bit manufactured for wood when drilling through wood. Using the incorrect bit may damage the bit and perhaps not accomplish the task. Using a wood bit on metal often does not penetrate the metal. When you have marked on the material to be drilled where you want the hole mark it with a pencil or marker with a dot or ‘x’. Place the drill bit exactly on the mark, squeeze the drill trigger and give just the slightest push to the drill. Let the drill do the work. Be patient and don’t pressure the drill bit through the hole. Try to keep the drill as perpendicular to the material as possible.
Although not a true 'drill', countersink bits are used in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These bits tend to be manufactured for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When used with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results may be obtained should the countersink bit is used before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression. Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they may be used by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking. Sharpening may be difficult, but may be done with a fine triangular file. Tile bits are those bits used for drilling ceramic tiles and glass. They have a ground tungsten carbide tip. They may be used with a hand drill, but are best used in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit) could be used to keep the tip cool. Ceramic tiles may also be drilled using a masonry bit should it is used at slow speed and without hammer action. Sharpening is difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge may be made good using an oilstone. Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber.
DIY Safety tips:
Although RCDs are a vital safety aid, they can't guarantee 100% protection. Even with them in your home, isn't it better to make a long term investment in good safety practice by looking after appliances such as hedge cutters, hedge trimmers, chainsaws, drill drivers and sanders. Do not work with electricity in damp or wet conditions. If you MUST, always use an RCD. Always place the cable of a hedge trimmer or mower over your shoulder and keep it behind you at all times.
Store tools in a safe place, out of the way of children and pets. Keep them in a box or a rack. When using knives, always cut away from you. Use a baton as a guide and run a sharp knife along the edge of it. Always store knives securely.
Keep your head: should any of your tools has a loose head or handle, replace the whole tool or have it repaired by a professional. Keep a tool box tidy for easy access and always use the cover guards which come with tools such as saws, knives and chisel blades. Buy equipment and household appliances which are made to a British or European standard or carry an approved product quality and safety mark. There may be a label on the product.
Take extra care with old paint. Some old paint could give off harmful dust and pose a poisoning hazard should ingested by small children. You must not burn off old paint or rub it down with dry sandpaper or a power sander; you could clean up properly, using a high efficiency industrial vacuum cleaner with heavy duty filters. Have a basic First Aid kit accessible.
Keep children and pets away from the work area. Store all tools and materials out of their reach. Many products are toxic.
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