Makita Drill Drivers

Makita 6319DWDE3 12v Drill Driver

The Makita 6319DWDE3 MXT Drill Driver 12V features a potent high torque all-metal MXT gearbox. It is a very robust Drill Driver with 13mm keyless chuck and Ni-MH batteries. Manufactured in the UK.

Specifications:
* 12V
* 3-Speed Variable & Reverse
* 3 x 2.6Ah Ni-MH Batteries
* 1hr Charger
* 16 Torque Settings
* All Metal Gearbox
* Carry Case

Choose a Great Drill

Excellent examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CP12KB 12v, Bosch PSR 12v, DeWalt DC740KA 12v, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v, Makita 6270DWPE3 12v, plus the Ryobi CHD1202 12v

If 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more your thing, then be sure to look at the Black & Decker Lithium Ion 14.4v, Bosch GSR Tough 14.4v, DeWalt DC757KA 14.4v, the Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v,Makita 6280DZ 14.4v, or the Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v

To adapt to your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers requirements, compare prices of the Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR 18v Drill Driver, DeWalt 920KB 18v Drill Driver, Hitachi DS18DMR 18v Drill Driver, the Makita 6390DZ 18v Drill Driver or the Ryobi CCD-181M One+ 18v Drill Driver

Being DIY Aware

For cordless drill drivers, power is measured in battery voltage. Higher voltage means more torque-spinning strength to overcome resistance. Over the last decade, top-end voltage has increased from 9.6 to 18V, but the range of models include 6, 7.2, 9.6, 12, 14.4 and 18V. Today's higher-voltage drill drivers have enough power to bore big holes in framing lumber and flooring. That's impressive muscle. But the trade-off for power is weight. A typical 9.6V drill weighs 3 1/2 lbs, while an 18V model weighs up to 10 lbs.

A Hammer Drill is not only able to provide a rotary motion but can also apply a small amount of hammer action to the drill bit, as though someone was tapping the back of the drill while the bit was spinning. This enables the drill to work through masonry. A Hammer Drill will typically have the ability to switch the hammer action off and on as required. You will find that motor wattages start around 600w for this type of drill and a good idea is to look at machines with around a 700w motor, these will enable you to drill masonry with up to a 16mm bit. This type of drill is a good all rounder for the home.

The least expensive drill drivers run at a single speed, but most have two fixed speeds: 300 rpm and 800 rpm. A slide switch or trigger lets you select high or low speed. These drill drivers are ideal for most light-duty operations. The low speed is for driving screws, the high speed for drilling holes. For more refined carpentry and repair tasks, select a drill that has the same two-speed switch and a trigger with variable speed control that lets you vary the speed from 0 rpm to the top of each range. And if you do more hole drilling than screwdriving, look for more speed, 1000 rpm or higher at the top end.

Cordless drill drivers are measured in volts. Drills are available in everything from around 2 volts (for a cordless screwdriver) to the newest 24-volt tools. Higher voltage means heavier weight so consider buying a tool that will meet 80-90% of your needs. Twelve to 14.4 volt models are the most popular, and they will usually meet most homeowner's work needs. Corded drills are measured in amps. Generally, a higher amperage motor means more power.

Nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) batteries represent the latest breakthrough in batteries. They're smaller and run longer than standard nickel-cadmium (Nicad) batteries. NiMH batteries also pose less of a hazard when it comes to disposal than Nicads because they don't contain any cadmium, which is highly toxic. Makita, Bosch, Hitachi and DeWalt offer NiMH batteries, and other manufacturers will soon produce these power cells too.

Lithium-ion batteries can rupture, ignite, or explode when exposed to high temperature environments, for example in an area that is prone to prolonged direct sunlight. Short-circuiting a Li-ion battery can cause it to ignite or explode, and as such, any attempt to open or modify a Li-ion battery's casing or circuitry is dangerous. Li-ion batteries contain safety appliances that protect the cells inside from abuse, and, if damaged, can cause the battery to ignite or explode.

An electric or portable (battery powered) drill can be a scary thing. But they aren’t hard to use. The most common drill drivers come in a pistol shape, making them easy to hold and use. The drill has a trigger you squeeze in order to make the drill bit rotate. Sometimes there is also a safety button located on the pistol handle that has to be pressed at the same time you squeeze the trigger in order to make the drill bit rotate. The battery pack is usually inserted into a docking station on the bottom of the pistol handle. Between uses the battery pack is charged in another docking station which is connected to an electrical outlet.

Not all holes need to go all the way through the material. Some holes need only be a certain depth in the wood. The easiest way to make certain you drill the correct depth is to measure the necessary hole depth on your drill bit. Then mark that point on the bit with a marker or wrap some tape around the bit at the measured spot. Then when you drill only insert the drill bit to the mark or tape. You can also purchase bit collars that slide over the bit and are secured at the suitable depth. The collars usually attach with a small hex wrench or screwdriver. The drilling is done and you have to get the bit out. Give the drill a little power to spin the bit and slowly pull it out of the hole. Don’t be too quick or pull it out without spinning the bit. Either of these may cause the bit to bind in the hole. The hole is complete and now you need to attach the fastener. Bits can be inserted into the drill turning the drill into a screwdriver or wrench. If you are attaching screws determine the size of the screw head and select a matching screwdriver bit. Connect the screwdriver bit to the drill in the same way you would other drill bits. Put the bit head in the screw head and squeeze the trigger. Be careful not to provide so much power that you go all the way through the material (if that’s not called for) or force the screw head too far down into the material. It’s easy to get carried away with the power of the drill. If you are attaching a bolt fastener you can also purchase bolt sockets that can be attached to the drill. Match the bit size with the bolt, attach the bit to the drill, and screw in the bolt.

Although not a true 'drill', countersink drill bits are utilized in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These drill bits tend to be designed for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When utilized with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results will be obtained if the countersink bit is utilized before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression. Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they can be utilized by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking. Sharpening can be difficult, but can be done with a fine triangular file. Tile drill bits are those drill bits utilized for drilling ceramic tiles and glass. They have a ground tungsten carbide tip. They can be utilized with a hand drill, but are best utilized in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit) should be utilized to keep the tip cool. Ceramic tiles can also be drilled using a masonry bit if it is utilized at slow speed and without hammer action. Sharpening is difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge can be made good using an oilstone. Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber.

DIY Safety tips:

If you need to change a mains fuse, check the correct rating for that circuit - the blown fuse might have been incorrect in the first place. Using a thicker fuse wire than the correct rating is dangerous. Switch off the power and remove the fuse for the relevant circuit before carrying out any work, or inspecting, either it, or the appliances connected to it. Never inspect, or carry out work on, any part of the system with the power on. Make sure that power cannot be inadvertently restored by someone else.
When painting, or using any material that generates toxic fumes or dust, keep the room well ventilated. Never smoke while painting or standing close to a freshly painted area.

Take extra care when removing artex or textured paint from walls as these materials may contain asbestos. Safety precautions must be followed when handling and disposing of asbestos. Contact your local environmental health department for help.

New appliances have to be supplied with a plug that is fused in accordance with manufacturers' instructions. Always follow manufacturers' recommendations for fuses, or seek expert help. Check older appliances such as electric blankets and Christmas tree lights. If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, switch off the appliance at the plug and unplug it before trying to find out why. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always switch off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on. If you need to change a mains fuse, check the correct rating for that circuit - the blown fuse might have been incorrect in the first place. Using a thicker fuse wire than the correct rating is dangerous.

If you have any doubts whatsoever about how to safely use any material, or equipment, ask the manufacturer or supplier.